﻿1
00:00:00,200 --> 00:00:01,400
Hi, beauties.

2
00:00:01,400 --> 00:00:04,680
Before we get into today's show,
I wanted to take a minute because

3
00:00:04,960 --> 00:00:07,040
for those of you
who've been listening for a while,

4
00:00:07,040 --> 00:00:08,800
first of all, thank you so much.

5
00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:13,240
But you will notice a small change
in the top of the show today.

6
00:00:13,240 --> 00:00:16,360
And that's
because when we started the show in 2018,

7
00:00:16,880 --> 00:00:21,040
we really wanted a place where we could
talk honestly and candidly about beauty

8
00:00:21,200 --> 00:00:25,920
without having brands pay us to say, well,
what they wanted us to say.

9
00:00:26,400 --> 00:00:29,160
And when we started, we were having fun.

10
00:00:29,160 --> 00:00:30,760
It was a passion project

11
00:00:30,760 --> 00:00:34,200
and we came up with this tagline,
The Real Truth about the Fake Shit.

12
00:00:34,320 --> 00:00:36,680
We were talking about plastic surgery.
It was a lot of fun.

13
00:00:37,040 --> 00:00:42,760
But since then, and almost over 200
episodes later, we realized that

14
00:00:42,760 --> 00:00:45,840
we're talking about real stuff and stuff
that's really important.

15
00:00:46,080 --> 00:00:48,840
And so we are tweaking our tagline
a little bit

16
00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:51,600
to be always
reaching for truth and beauty.

17
00:00:52,440 --> 00:00:53,680
Why is that important?

18
00:00:53,680 --> 00:00:57,160
Because the brands are still not paying us
to be on the show and that allows us

19
00:00:57,160 --> 00:01:00,840
to have these candid conversations
with experts, with founders

20
00:01:01,040 --> 00:01:06,280
about everything from products
to technologies and everything in between.

21
00:01:06,280 --> 00:01:09,520
And I hope that you will appreciate this
new change.

22
00:01:09,760 --> 00:01:13,440
I think it's just a small tweak
in our evolution of bringing you content

23
00:01:13,440 --> 00:01:14,360
that matters

24
00:01:14,360 --> 00:01:17,160
because at the end of the day,
we want you to be informed

25
00:01:17,160 --> 00:01:20,000
so you can make the best decisions
for yourself.

26
00:01:20,280 --> 00:01:25,040
And I couldn't kick off this new branding
them with a better, more exciting guest.

27
00:01:25,040 --> 00:01:29,400
We are talking today to the founder
of Citrus Labs about clinical testing,

28
00:01:29,640 --> 00:01:32,520
how we can understand that,
how we can see through the claims.

29
00:01:32,680 --> 00:01:33,840
And I think you're going to love it.

30
00:01:33,840 --> 00:01:36,680
So thank you so much for your continued
support.

31
00:01:37,080 --> 00:01:38,600
Enjoy the show.

32
00:01:38,600 --> 00:01:41,760
This is the Art Beauty podcast,
where we are always reaching for

33
00:01:41,760 --> 00:01:43,280
truth in beauty.

34
00:01:43,280 --> 00:01:45,960
Now remember,
this is an UNsponsored podcast,

35
00:01:45,960 --> 00:01:48,840
which means the brands who are on here
are not paying to be on here,

36
00:01:49,080 --> 00:01:52,080
which allows us to have honest
and candid conversations

37
00:01:52,080 --> 00:01:55,680
because at the end of the day,
we believe you deserve to be informed

38
00:01:55,680 --> 00:01:58,200
so you can make the best choice
for yourself.

39
00:01:58,680 --> 00:02:02,520
I'm Amber, and today
my fabulous co-host is Suzanne

40
00:02:02,520 --> 00:02:05,960
Mitschke,
she is the CEO and founder of Citrus Labs.

41
00:02:06,280 --> 00:02:09,080
And I could not imagine
having a better show

42
00:02:09,080 --> 00:02:12,160
to kick off our new branding
with than with you.

43
00:02:12,160 --> 00:02:13,840
Suzanne, thank you so much for being here.

44
00:02:14,800 --> 00:02:16,320
Thank you so much for having me.

45
00:02:16,320 --> 00:02:17,880
I'm really excited.

46
00:02:17,880 --> 00:02:19,680
So, you know, part of this,

47
00:02:19,680 --> 00:02:22,800
you know, ideas, when we started
this podcast, we wanted a space

48
00:02:22,800 --> 00:02:26,120
where we could talk candidly
and honestly with brands like yourselves,

49
00:02:26,840 --> 00:02:28,320
you know, about the products.

50
00:02:28,320 --> 00:02:31,920
But one of the things
that is so fascinating why I'm so excited

51
00:02:31,920 --> 00:02:36,000
today is because so many of us
who have bought a product, who've done any

52
00:02:36,000 --> 00:02:39,760
even like the most basic
research on a product, have seen the term

53
00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:44,320
clinically proven,
clinically tested clinical trials.

54
00:02:44,680 --> 00:02:49,440
You know, and in the spirit of education,
I'm so excited to have you on

55
00:02:49,440 --> 00:02:54,440
because Citrus Labs is where
a lot of these clinical studies happen.

56
00:02:54,440 --> 00:02:57,400
Correct. For beauty.
Yeah, that is correct.

57
00:02:57,400 --> 00:03:02,160
So basically what we do, what Citrus Labs
does as we conduct clinical studies

58
00:03:02,640 --> 00:03:06,160
on behalf of consumer
brands like skincare,

59
00:03:06,160 --> 00:03:09,480
we also do
supplements, superfoods, devices, and then

60
00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:14,840
we help these brands to actually make
research backed product claims.

61
00:03:14,840 --> 00:03:19,760
And the prime
example of our work is a claim like 75%

62
00:03:19,760 --> 00:03:23,000
reduction in the appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles.

63
00:03:23,600 --> 00:03:26,280
Right?
And so we've all heard these before.

64
00:03:26,280 --> 00:03:27,040
And what I'm hoping

65
00:03:27,040 --> 00:03:30,680
today is for us to talk a little bit
about what that process is with you

66
00:03:30,880 --> 00:03:34,920
so that we know how to sort of interpolate

67
00:03:34,920 --> 00:03:38,400
that data, how we know how to make sure
that that's data that we want to follow.

68
00:03:38,600 --> 00:03:42,640
Also to talk about the difference
between things like clinical perception

69
00:03:43,200 --> 00:03:47,800
studies and then also like clinical
research studies and kind of

70
00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:50,200
understand a little bit more of the claim.

71
00:03:50,200 --> 00:03:52,120
So let's get right into it.

72
00:03:52,120 --> 00:03:55,080
When a company approaches you
like a skincare company,

73
00:03:55,520 --> 00:03:58,040
what goes into doing a clinical study?

74
00:03:58,040 --> 00:04:02,280
What goes into doing this
clinical research and making those claims?

75
00:04:03,360 --> 00:04:03,960
Yeah.

76
00:04:03,960 --> 00:04:08,280
So if you specifically
look at the cosmetics, the beauty space,

77
00:04:08,640 --> 00:04:12,920
beauty has conducted clinicals
since forever.

78
00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:17,040
And typically what you need to launch
a brand is obviously a product,

79
00:04:17,320 --> 00:04:20,160
you need a website,
you need to pick it Instagram account

80
00:04:20,160 --> 00:04:22,960
and typically either a clinical trial

81
00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:28,760
or a consumer perception study
to then substantiate product claims.

82
00:04:28,920 --> 00:04:31,760
And at this point, most of these brands

83
00:04:31,760 --> 00:04:34,280
have clinicals attached to them,

84
00:04:34,920 --> 00:04:37,440
which is, as I mentioned,
either perception

85
00:04:37,720 --> 00:04:42,640
or an actual clinical trial
in most cases for cosmetics.

86
00:04:42,640 --> 00:04:48,360
So it is a perception study
and I'm happy to talk a little bit more

87
00:04:48,360 --> 00:04:52,200
what the difference is, because I guess
what you're probably interested in.

88
00:04:52,800 --> 00:04:53,360
Well.

89
00:04:53,360 --> 00:04:56,120
Well,
you know, before we get into the two types

90
00:04:56,120 --> 00:05:00,760
of studies, you know, I know that,
you know, beauty, cosmetic, skincare,

91
00:05:01,080 --> 00:05:05,520
it's it's
a highly sort of unregulated industry.

92
00:05:06,600 --> 00:05:08,080
However,

93
00:05:08,080 --> 00:05:09,480
from what I understand

94
00:05:09,480 --> 00:05:13,320
now, I used to work with Murad,
and I know that working with QVC, QVC

95
00:05:13,320 --> 00:05:15,520
takes its clinicals
and making those claims

96
00:05:15,520 --> 00:05:18,640
very seriously,
and especially when it comes to marketing,

97
00:05:19,000 --> 00:05:21,120
if you're going to make a claim,
there has to be

98
00:05:22,320 --> 00:05:24,120
it has to be substantiated. Right?

99
00:05:24,120 --> 00:05:26,840
So where. Yeah. Okay.

100
00:05:26,880 --> 00:05:29,160
So that these clinical
you know, when you're when you're talking

101
00:05:29,160 --> 00:05:32,040
about clinicals and we're going to talk
about the difference between sort of a

102
00:05:32,640 --> 00:05:34,960
a clinical study and a perception study.

103
00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:37,960
But they have to
they have to have actual like

104
00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:41,440
truth and science
and fact behind them, Correct.

105
00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:44,360
They should have, yes.

106
00:05:44,360 --> 00:05:45,880
Okay. Okay.

107
00:05:45,880 --> 00:05:49,120
But they don't have to
as a regulation on that there.

108
00:05:49,200 --> 00:05:54,080
So there is a new regulation called MACRA.

109
00:05:54,080 --> 00:05:59,960
I think it stands for the Modernization
of Cosmetics Regulation Act.

110
00:05:59,960 --> 00:06:02,280
And it's actually the first change
in regulation

111
00:06:02,520 --> 00:06:07,400
of these personal care products
since I think it's 1938.

112
00:06:07,760 --> 00:06:09,680
So since a very long time.

113
00:06:09,680 --> 00:06:13,200
And now we are seeing
in this new regulation

114
00:06:13,680 --> 00:06:16,560
actually mandatory safety substantiation.

115
00:06:16,760 --> 00:06:19,200
But at the same time, the FTC

116
00:06:20,360 --> 00:06:20,760
actually

117
00:06:20,760 --> 00:06:26,240
also submitted new regulation around
how to actually substantiate claims.

118
00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:29,200
So that is very interesting now.

119
00:06:29,880 --> 00:06:32,520
So you actually have to have four claims

120
00:06:32,520 --> 00:06:35,400
substantiate,
you have to have clinical backing.

121
00:06:35,880 --> 00:06:38,840
But then obviously the claims you see,

122
00:06:38,840 --> 00:06:40,920
we don't know if you know,

123
00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:44,520
in most cases
we don't know who conducted the study.

124
00:06:44,680 --> 00:06:47,640
We don't know how big the sample size was,

125
00:06:47,640 --> 00:06:51,880
and we don't know if they might have done
some statistical

126
00:06:52,200 --> 00:06:55,440
calculations in the background,
maybe left out some groups.

127
00:06:56,360 --> 00:06:58,960
So this is all, you know, not regulated.

128
00:06:59,760 --> 00:07:00,320
Okay.

129
00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:03,400
So let's get into,
you know, let's start at the beginning,

130
00:07:03,400 --> 00:07:08,280
because I I'm assuming that everybody else
is is fascinated with this as I am.

131
00:07:08,520 --> 00:07:11,480
So when it comes to, you know, clinicals,

132
00:07:11,600 --> 00:07:15,840
what are the different types of studies
that brands can be doing right now?

133
00:07:16,920 --> 00:07:17,280
Yeah.

134
00:07:17,280 --> 00:07:20,600
So clinical trials in cosmetics,

135
00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:24,760
research studies that evaluate

136
00:07:24,800 --> 00:07:28,800
if a product works and basically does
what it's supposed to do.

137
00:07:28,800 --> 00:07:32,280
For example, I have four months
to research the goal of a moisturizer.

138
00:07:32,280 --> 00:07:35,280
It's to hydrate and maybe I want to make

139
00:07:35,280 --> 00:07:38,120
some claims around obviously hydration,

140
00:07:38,400 --> 00:07:41,560
maybe even fine
lines, wrinkles, skin texture, glow.

141
00:07:41,920 --> 00:07:44,520
So the clinical study then would assess,

142
00:07:45,240 --> 00:07:49,400
obviously, first and foremost hydration
and then also would look

143
00:07:49,400 --> 00:07:52,440
how fine lines and wrinkles

144
00:07:52,520 --> 00:07:55,240
develop, how my skin texture changes.

145
00:07:56,120 --> 00:07:58,800
And also if I get a nice glow now,

146
00:07:59,080 --> 00:08:03,240
you know, clinical trials
and clinical trials,

147
00:08:03,240 --> 00:08:07,280
especially in skin care,
I see that clinical trials and consumer

148
00:08:07,280 --> 00:08:10,680
perception studies are actually often
used interchangeably.

149
00:08:11,080 --> 00:08:14,880
But you know, as we already established,
there is a huge difference.

150
00:08:15,480 --> 00:08:19,920
Clinical trials typically involve
objective data measurement.

151
00:08:20,440 --> 00:08:23,040
For example, they involve a skin

152
00:08:23,400 --> 00:08:26,400
analyzer that objectively measures

153
00:08:26,480 --> 00:08:30,040
things like wrinkles,
fine lines, hyperpigmentation,

154
00:08:30,600 --> 00:08:33,000
sensitive skin parts

155
00:08:33,200 --> 00:08:37,040
seen in rosacea, for example,
usually damage brown spots.

156
00:08:37,040 --> 00:08:37,960
Skin monster

157
00:08:38,960 --> 00:08:39,840
Objective data

158
00:08:39,840 --> 00:08:42,880
measurement can also happen
through instruments

159
00:08:42,880 --> 00:08:46,440
like a corneal reader,
a tattoo imager or to a meter.

160
00:08:46,760 --> 00:08:50,560
And then there's also expert
skin grading done

161
00:08:50,560 --> 00:08:54,920
by a dermatologist,
which also is objective data measurement.

162
00:08:55,440 --> 00:09:00,240
And then typically clinical trials
involve statistical data analysis,

163
00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:05,080
and then you can make claims
like significantly improve skin hydration.

164
00:09:05,600 --> 00:09:05,840
Right.

165
00:09:05,840 --> 00:09:09,720
And also, if you test if you test
to protect against a placebo, you can also

166
00:09:09,720 --> 00:09:13,200
see increases hydration

167
00:09:13,200 --> 00:09:16,960
by X percent,
significantly greater than a placebo.

168
00:09:17,240 --> 00:09:21,240
But testing against
the placebo is very rare.

169
00:09:21,240 --> 00:09:23,640
Unfortunately, in cosmetics.

170
00:09:23,640 --> 00:09:26,840
And then we have perception
studies, perception

171
00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:29,840
studies as more subjective.

172
00:09:30,280 --> 00:09:32,360
They only involve questionnaires

173
00:09:33,000 --> 00:09:37,520
and frankly, there can also be
a huge difference in these questionnaires.

174
00:09:37,600 --> 00:09:40,200
For example, a higher standard is

175
00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:44,760
when you have a questionnaire
that uses the like hard scale from 1 to 5

176
00:09:46,200 --> 00:09:46,560
and you

177
00:09:46,560 --> 00:09:50,320
have, for example, the question
how would you rate your dark

178
00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:54,560
circles under eyes and then go number one,
not noticeable.

179
00:09:54,560 --> 00:09:56,720
Number two, barely noticeable.

180
00:09:56,720 --> 00:09:59,600
Number three, mild, number four, moderate.

181
00:09:59,600 --> 00:10:02,520
And then number five, severe.

182
00:10:02,520 --> 00:10:05,400
Then the same question, can
we ask in a different way?

183
00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:10,120
You can ask, do you agree or disagree
that your dark circles under eye improves

184
00:10:10,120 --> 00:10:15,400
and then you go 1 to 5 from strongly agree
to strongly disagree?

185
00:10:15,760 --> 00:10:19,360
And, you know,
basically that gives you better change

186
00:10:19,680 --> 00:10:24,360
a better chance to have like a claim
like X consent decree that they're under I

187
00:10:24,840 --> 00:10:27,720
dark circles improved
and then you have actually

188
00:10:27,720 --> 00:10:30,640
a third option for question
you can do like

189
00:10:30,800 --> 00:10:34,920
do you agree that your dark circles
under your eyes improved compared to

190
00:10:34,920 --> 00:10:38,680
when you first started using the product
and then you just have yes or no?

191
00:10:39,000 --> 00:10:39,840
Right. And

192
00:10:41,040 --> 00:10:42,720
typically the best questions

193
00:10:42,720 --> 00:10:47,560
that I always have to smile on
is when they are around hydration, right?

194
00:10:47,760 --> 00:10:51,680
When you have a super
hydrating moisturizer and then ask like,

195
00:10:51,720 --> 00:10:57,120
do you agree that your skin gets
more hydrated after using that product?

196
00:10:57,240 --> 00:10:59,280
Of course any person would say yes.

197
00:10:59,280 --> 00:11:04,200
And then you have these claims that stayed
like 100% of participants agree.

198
00:11:05,440 --> 00:11:06,960
You know, you bring up a good point.

199
00:11:06,960 --> 00:11:11,400
Is there any way So just
I want to make sure that I'm clear.

200
00:11:11,400 --> 00:11:16,200
So a clinical trial is something that is
generally more scientifically backed

201
00:11:17,280 --> 00:11:20,720
about collective data
using scientific measurements.

202
00:11:20,720 --> 00:11:22,720
I know we had Dr. Murad on the show once.

203
00:11:22,800 --> 00:11:24,720
He talked about a product
that he was doing

204
00:11:24,720 --> 00:11:27,880
that actually did skin puncture
like a skin punch stance,

205
00:11:27,880 --> 00:11:30,160
and they were looking at this
under a microscope.

206
00:11:30,160 --> 00:11:33,280
So so those are really scientific claims

207
00:11:33,960 --> 00:11:37,560
versus the consumer perception,
which is not that they're not important,

208
00:11:37,560 --> 00:11:38,760
but then have maybe

209
00:11:39,760 --> 00:11:41,920
a greater degree of variability.

210
00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:45,560
Is there any way for us to be able to read

211
00:11:45,560 --> 00:11:47,560
into those and decipher them?

212
00:11:49,120 --> 00:11:49,560
Yeah.

213
00:11:49,560 --> 00:11:53,560
So, you know, first of all, when something

214
00:11:53,560 --> 00:11:57,000
sounds too
good to be true, it typically is.

215
00:11:57,360 --> 00:12:01,080
But generally
when when I see something that states

216
00:12:01,160 --> 00:12:05,280
100% sets and 100%

217
00:12:05,280 --> 00:12:09,080
accrete to me,
this is a super, super red flag.

218
00:12:09,080 --> 00:12:12,920
And of course, you know, their products
achieve all of that in 2 to 4 weeks.

219
00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:17,360
To me, I highly doubt that,
especially as our skin typically

220
00:12:17,360 --> 00:12:21,720
needs about 30 days to show any results
because that is how long,

221
00:12:21,880 --> 00:12:23,560
you know, skin cells turn over.

222
00:12:23,560 --> 00:12:26,640
The exception isn't moisturizer
you pretty much told me

223
00:12:26,640 --> 00:12:29,960
to be if it
if it helps, if it works or not. But

224
00:12:31,200 --> 00:12:32,760
interestingly, for

225
00:12:32,760 --> 00:12:36,840
for me and also my work
is that most of our clients actually met

226
00:12:36,840 --> 00:12:40,920
when they don't get results, the high 92
or even 100% claims.

227
00:12:40,920 --> 00:12:44,400
But then when you look at a company
like Skinceuticals,

228
00:12:44,640 --> 00:12:47,600
for example,
they are like the Holy Grail, right?

229
00:12:47,640 --> 00:12:50,520
The super science forward brand, their

230
00:12:51,560 --> 00:12:55,320
C Ferulic,
which I think is their bestseller,

231
00:12:55,320 --> 00:12:59,240
that vitamin C serum
has results in the 20 to 30%.

232
00:12:59,560 --> 00:13:01,680
And that is something
that I can get behind.

233
00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:07,760
Like 30 something
percent said that their firm is increased,

234
00:13:07,760 --> 00:13:11,400
30% reduction
in the appearance of wrinkles.

235
00:13:11,760 --> 00:13:15,360
These are like results that are actually
coming from clinical studies

236
00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:18,480
and that's great.

237
00:13:18,480 --> 00:13:21,960
And they like a 30% decrease in fine
lines.

238
00:13:21,960 --> 00:13:24,520
Wrinkles is actually really,
really meaningful.

239
00:13:24,920 --> 00:13:25,560
Yeah.

240
00:13:25,560 --> 00:13:28,440
Now I go, so it's funny, I get to go.

241
00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:32,480
In my career, I've gotten to go
to a lot of different launch events.

242
00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:38,160
I see a lot of the time with,
you know, these noninvasive procedures.

243
00:13:38,160 --> 00:13:42,680
And sometimes I'm they're looking at their
before and afters and I'm like, well,

244
00:13:43,040 --> 00:13:46,920
okay, you know, her neck in one picture
it was like this.

245
00:13:46,920 --> 00:13:49,800
And then the other one, yes, of course,
it looks a lot better.

246
00:13:49,800 --> 00:13:52,800
Or, you know, you can tell like
sometimes they're hunched over, so her

247
00:13:52,800 --> 00:13:56,080
stomach looks a little more flabby
and then she's standing up straight.

248
00:13:56,320 --> 00:13:58,080
You know,
I think braids have gotten better at this.

249
00:13:58,080 --> 00:14:01,240
I'm talking about like, you know, 15 years
ago, I used to go and be like, really?

250
00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:02,920
Are you trying to pull that over on us?

251
00:14:04,360 --> 00:14:07,800
But, you know, nowadays
I will see a lot of these studies.

252
00:14:07,800 --> 00:14:13,040
And then sometimes, you know, looking
at the sample size, that's important to.

253
00:14:13,080 --> 00:14:14,800
Right,
because sometimes they'll see something.

254
00:14:14,800 --> 00:14:19,800
And it's like in a study of 20 people,
100% said this, but it's

255
00:14:21,360 --> 00:14:22,720
20 people.

256
00:14:22,720 --> 00:14:25,680
Or is that kind of a normal

257
00:14:25,680 --> 00:14:26,320
sample size?

258
00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:30,840
I think 10 to 20 people is quite low,
obviously.

259
00:14:30,840 --> 00:14:34,680
And so each study
should have a power calculation

260
00:14:36,120 --> 00:14:40,640
and, you know,
to basically get to choose the sample size

261
00:14:40,640 --> 00:14:45,000
that you can make
statistically significant claims.

262
00:14:45,600 --> 00:14:48,520
But training people seems fairly low.

263
00:14:49,360 --> 00:14:52,760
But typically that is again,
what we see specifically

264
00:14:53,640 --> 00:14:57,880
in perception studies and also it's funny
that you mentioned before

265
00:14:57,880 --> 00:15:00,960
and after photos, often
when we work with brands,

266
00:15:00,960 --> 00:15:05,640
they are coming to us with examples
from other brands and they tell us,

267
00:15:05,640 --> 00:15:09,800
I want professional before and afters
and I want them to look like this.

268
00:15:09,880 --> 00:15:13,840
And then we look at the photos
and they clearly show a model

269
00:15:13,840 --> 00:15:19,720
and they were clearly taken in a studio
and the results are obviously amazing.

270
00:15:19,720 --> 00:15:23,480
It's like, you know,
a person has severe acne and then,

271
00:15:23,800 --> 00:15:27,400
you know, 12 weeks later,
all of their pitfalls are gone.

272
00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:28,680
Right.

273
00:15:28,680 --> 00:15:32,880
And, you know, it
basically gets sometimes to a point where

274
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:38,000
I think the the ethics of running
an objective clinical trial

275
00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:42,320
or even a fairly objective
perception study are a little stretched.

276
00:15:43,560 --> 00:15:43,920
Gosh.

277
00:15:43,920 --> 00:15:46,360
So, I mean,
is there anything that a consumer can do?

278
00:15:46,360 --> 00:15:49,560
You know, you we hear these terms
and of course, they sound really powerful.

279
00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:51,960
But like, you know,
I know you said if it you know,

280
00:15:51,960 --> 00:15:55,560
maybe if it sounds too good to be true,
it might just be.

281
00:15:55,840 --> 00:16:01,080
Is there anything else
that we can be looking for?

282
00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:06,120
So we try to push our clients
to be more transparent.

283
00:16:06,480 --> 00:16:10,800
And I think the more transparent
the brands are, the better they are,

284
00:16:12,120 --> 00:16:14,720
you know, because looking at looking
at study results, right.

285
00:16:14,760 --> 00:16:17,280
Most of them
put something on their website like,

286
00:16:17,600 --> 00:16:21,800
you know, based on a third party
clinical trial.

287
00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:24,280
But again,
who conducted this clinical trial?

288
00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:24,640
Right.

289
00:16:24,640 --> 00:16:28,080
Is it is it like, well,
the qualified people

290
00:16:28,080 --> 00:16:32,640
that were actually third party or was it
your cousin was a dermatologist

291
00:16:33,320 --> 00:16:37,480
or was it a marketing agency
that, you know, self

292
00:16:38,120 --> 00:16:41,160
perception studies and markets
them as clinical trials?

293
00:16:41,840 --> 00:16:44,280
So we are really pushing our clients

294
00:16:44,520 --> 00:16:48,600
to actually tell who the studying
in this case study results.

295
00:16:48,600 --> 00:16:54,080
And then also if it was a clinical study
link to the clinicaltrials.gov page,

296
00:16:54,360 --> 00:16:59,520
which is basically a history where all
clinical trials are registered and then

297
00:17:00,600 --> 00:17:04,000
anybody can read about the methodologies,
right?

298
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:07,080
Methodologies meaning, you know,
what kind of assessment was used?

299
00:17:07,080 --> 00:17:08,400
Was it a skin analyzer?

300
00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:09,400
Was it an instrument?

301
00:17:09,400 --> 00:17:10,440
Was it

302
00:17:12,040 --> 00:17:14,400
expert
skin creating done by a dermatologist?

303
00:17:14,640 --> 00:17:17,720
And also talking a little bit about,
you know, questionnaires,

304
00:17:17,720 --> 00:17:23,080
because all studies involve questionnaires
even when they are clinical trials

305
00:17:23,080 --> 00:17:26,560
that also include objective data,
they also include questionnaires.

306
00:17:26,560 --> 00:17:29,200
You know, how are these questionnaires
structured, for example?

307
00:17:29,400 --> 00:17:33,440
And that's, you know, gives you
as a consumer more transparency

308
00:17:33,800 --> 00:17:37,920
and also gives you a chance
to interpret these results.

309
00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:41,640
So now does every clinical trial

310
00:17:41,880 --> 00:17:45,080
have to be registered
on clinicaltrials.gov?

311
00:17:46,160 --> 00:17:51,080
Unfortunately,
there is no law, no regulation.

312
00:17:51,080 --> 00:17:54,800
That's, you know, basically
because it's cosmetics, Right.

313
00:17:54,800 --> 00:17:58,240
Cosmetics don't need to don't
need to get registered.

314
00:17:58,520 --> 00:18:01,280
But for me personally,
I think it's best practice.

315
00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:05,400
We talked
previously a little bit about MACRA right.

316
00:18:05,400 --> 00:18:09,320
That that new regulation that came out
and I think it's a step

317
00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:13,360
in the right direction
but especially for, you know,

318
00:18:13,640 --> 00:18:17,520
consumers transparency,
making misleading false claims.

319
00:18:17,800 --> 00:18:21,360
I think they really need to,
you know, push it

320
00:18:21,360 --> 00:18:24,960
more towards
we have the good manufacturing practices.

321
00:18:25,200 --> 00:18:28,520
Maybe we also need
good clinical trial practices.

322
00:18:29,120 --> 00:18:29,560
Yeah.

323
00:18:29,560 --> 00:18:32,920
You know, it's funny, too,
because I know when it comes

324
00:18:32,920 --> 00:18:36,240
to claims legally like brands,
you said at the beginning,

325
00:18:36,560 --> 00:18:39,840
this can improve the appearance

326
00:18:39,840 --> 00:18:42,760
of longer fuller lashes.

327
00:18:43,680 --> 00:18:46,000
They're not saying it's
going to give you longer fuller lashes

328
00:18:46,000 --> 00:18:48,480
because they can't necessarily
guarantee that. Right.

329
00:18:48,480 --> 00:18:49,640
But they also.

330
00:18:49,640 --> 00:18:52,080
Are not allowed to do that
because that's a claim.

331
00:18:52,680 --> 00:18:53,760
That's a drug claim.

332
00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:54,680
Got it. Okay.

333
00:18:54,680 --> 00:18:58,480
So so what
what what is the drug claim entitled?

334
00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:01,160
What does that for example?

335
00:19:01,160 --> 00:19:01,640
Oh, yeah.

336
00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:03,320
So, for example, acne.

337
00:19:03,320 --> 00:19:04,920
Acne is a skin condition.

338
00:19:04,920 --> 00:19:07,080
Acne is the health condition.

339
00:19:07,240 --> 00:19:11,280
And you cannot say if your cosmetic
you cannot say that

340
00:19:11,640 --> 00:19:14,360
this product reduces acne.

341
00:19:14,400 --> 00:19:19,760
That would be that would be a health claim
and that is flagged by the FDA

342
00:19:20,600 --> 00:19:23,960
because now you are basically falling
under FDA regulation.

343
00:19:23,960 --> 00:19:27,080
But you can say it reduces the appearance

344
00:19:27,240 --> 00:19:30,600
of ethylene. Wow.

345
00:19:30,600 --> 00:19:34,760
And so I guess because I see that in a lot
of like hair growth serums or like,

346
00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:40,480
Oh, yes, because I guess hair
loss would be a medical condition.

347
00:19:40,480 --> 00:19:41,280
Alopecia.

348
00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:44,280
It is a medical condition.

349
00:19:44,800 --> 00:19:46,560
But I can make those claims.

350
00:19:46,560 --> 00:19:49,920
They don't look at aging and wrinkles
as a medical condition.

351
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:54,680
No, that is not a medical that is just,
you know, our body doing start it.

352
00:19:56,040 --> 00:19:56,880
Got it.

353
00:19:56,880 --> 00:19:59,600
So, you know, I mean, I feel like
this is so fascinating.

354
00:20:00,680 --> 00:20:01,840
Do you have any thoughts?

355
00:20:01,840 --> 00:20:03,360
So some

356
00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:05,880
cosmetic brands

357
00:20:05,880 --> 00:20:09,040
are actually owned by medical companies.

358
00:20:09,040 --> 00:20:12,080
So I know, you know, Skin
Medica is one of them.

359
00:20:12,080 --> 00:20:12,880
And I know that they have

360
00:20:12,880 --> 00:20:16,080
to be very careful about the claims
that they're making because they,

361
00:20:16,320 --> 00:20:20,200
as a brand, do fall under

362
00:20:20,400 --> 00:20:22,320
other regulations of the FDA,

363
00:20:22,320 --> 00:20:25,680
that they fall under.

364
00:20:25,680 --> 00:20:26,520
Yeah.

365
00:20:26,520 --> 00:20:29,360
You know, I think it really comes down to

366
00:20:29,920 --> 00:20:33,160
so we actually work with with a law group

367
00:20:33,360 --> 00:20:37,560
that is only focusing on these claims

368
00:20:37,920 --> 00:20:41,600
for cosmetic companies
and also supplement companies.

369
00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:44,640
And they always tell everybody

370
00:20:44,640 --> 00:20:48,240
that it always comes down
to the risk profile of a brand.

371
00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:52,160
So I'm friends,
you know, don't worry about the FDA

372
00:20:52,160 --> 00:20:56,280
sending them a warning letter
because they can make that fine.

373
00:20:56,600 --> 00:20:57,440
Right.

374
00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,120
But once they are penalized,
they have to pay a fine

375
00:21:00,360 --> 00:21:04,680
and then, you know, they can make that
with that claim in like a week or two.

376
00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:06,440
And it's fun, right?

377
00:21:06,440 --> 00:21:10,160
But other brands are a little bit
more conservative when it comes

378
00:21:10,160 --> 00:21:11,880
to how they are making claims.

379
00:21:11,880 --> 00:21:14,440
And I think most of small brands
are conservative.

380
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:15,640
How they are making claims.

381
00:21:15,640 --> 00:21:17,760
And then you see the appearance claims.

382
00:21:17,760 --> 00:21:21,600
The thing is that, you know,
also how the claims are phrased

383
00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:26,040
does not necessarily show you
if it was a clinical

384
00:21:26,120 --> 00:21:30,960
it was an actual clinical trial
or a perception study,

385
00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:35,640
because again, coming down to the risk
profile, we have many clients that,

386
00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:41,160
you know, decided to invest
in a full clinical trial, sometimes even

387
00:21:41,160 --> 00:21:43,840
with the placebo risk and analysis

388
00:21:44,320 --> 00:21:47,160
instruments and expert skin craving.

389
00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:52,720
But their claims still look as if they
would have conducted a perception study

390
00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:56,920
just because this is how they decided
they are appraising their claims.

391
00:21:57,840 --> 00:21:58,560
So how so?

392
00:21:58,560 --> 00:22:01,920
Because I feel like the perceptions
are like 99% of consumers.

393
00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:04,560
They generally say, well,
how wouldn't they take a clinical one

394
00:22:04,560 --> 00:22:06,000
and make it sound like a consumer one?

395
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:09,120
Like, for example,

396
00:22:09,120 --> 00:22:13,200
50% showed a 50% presented threat.

397
00:22:13,200 --> 00:22:16,280
Instead of saying,
you know, 20% reduction in wrinkle.

398
00:22:17,160 --> 00:22:17,640
Got it.

399
00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:20,720
Oh, my gosh.
So this terminology is is nuts.

400
00:22:20,920 --> 00:22:24,760
You know, I have to ask
just as know a fellow consumer,

401
00:22:25,600 --> 00:22:28,960
are there brands that
you really get behind or you love to say.

402
00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,960
Yeah, I love most of our brands.

403
00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:36,800
But are these brands that you do
the study with?

404
00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:40,280
Like you don't have any
they're hiring you right as a third party.

405
00:22:40,280 --> 00:22:43,920
You don't have any sort of affiliation
or anything to them, Correct?

406
00:22:44,280 --> 00:22:44,760
Okay.

407
00:22:44,760 --> 00:22:47,720
We don't have any affiliation.

408
00:22:47,720 --> 00:22:48,360
Obviously.

409
00:22:48,360 --> 00:22:52,880
I do test a lot of these products myself,
and I do have a lot of friends

410
00:22:52,880 --> 00:22:56,000
that I love
and that I probably would not have,

411
00:22:56,440 --> 00:23:00,360
you know, bought in Sephora
if I would have seen them.

412
00:23:01,040 --> 00:23:04,240
But so some of our some of the brands
we work with, they are really

413
00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:09,240
science forward and they have really,
really good products.

414
00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:12,000
Well, tell us, I mean, let's get on that.

415
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:13,640
Are you allowed to tell us some of them?

416
00:23:13,640 --> 00:23:16,040
Yeah, Yeah. Of course, of course.

417
00:23:16,040 --> 00:23:19,240
So one of my favorite brands
is actually called Common Air,

418
00:23:19,680 --> 00:23:22,200
and they are clean beauty.

419
00:23:22,200 --> 00:23:24,520
I think right now they've three products.

420
00:23:24,520 --> 00:23:28,640
They have vitamin C,
then they have retinol,

421
00:23:28,640 --> 00:23:32,280
then they have that product it
and fortunately just forgot.

422
00:23:32,280 --> 00:23:34,440
But they are retinol is amazing.

423
00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:37,400
The vitamin C is really, really great.

424
00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:40,800
And all of that is also clean,

425
00:23:40,800 --> 00:23:43,080
clean packaging, you know, plastic.

426
00:23:43,080 --> 00:23:47,960
There they have the portions
basically cut my little capsules.

427
00:23:48,280 --> 00:23:48,560
Okay?

428
00:23:48,560 --> 00:23:49,120
And it's like

429
00:23:49,120 --> 00:23:51,840
super easy when you travel a lot
and it gives you right

430
00:23:51,840 --> 00:23:55,080
the exact amount you need for your face
and neck, which is awesome.

431
00:23:55,680 --> 00:23:56,840
Then another one

432
00:23:57,840 --> 00:24:00,000
we we love

433
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:04,080
with tremendous results
and say beauty, for example,

434
00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:07,680
they are, I think, a makeup

435
00:24:07,880 --> 00:24:11,480
with skin care combined brand
and you know,

436
00:24:11,760 --> 00:24:14,840
we love our makeup that also has

437
00:24:15,400 --> 00:24:18,480
that also nourishes skin or is amazing.

438
00:24:19,000 --> 00:24:24,040
Yeah other brands
we really like for example naked puppy

439
00:24:24,880 --> 00:24:29,040
they they have amazing amazing product.

440
00:24:29,880 --> 00:24:35,920
Another brand we recently worked with,
they only have one product so far.

441
00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:38,280
It's called a super light skin.

442
00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:42,720
They are entirely new on the market
and their moisturizer is nuts.

443
00:24:43,560 --> 00:24:46,080
Oh really is probably one of the best.

444
00:24:46,080 --> 00:24:49,240
It's actually a zero moisturizer, zero
hydrating serum

445
00:24:49,560 --> 00:24:52,320
and you know, just from

446
00:24:52,320 --> 00:24:55,600
I remember
when I first used it on my skin,

447
00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:59,160
I was like, wow,
that is an amazing, amazing product.

448
00:24:59,360 --> 00:25:01,440
And here we had the same.

449
00:25:01,440 --> 00:25:02,600
So they actually went through

450
00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:06,720
a full clinical study with implementation,
with expert skin grading,

451
00:25:07,320 --> 00:25:09,720
and their claims weren't in the 100%

452
00:25:09,720 --> 00:25:12,960
because you don't get that right
in an objective study.

453
00:25:12,960 --> 00:25:17,160
There's no way that your fine lines
and wrinkles will improve by 100%.

454
00:25:17,200 --> 00:25:19,440
That's just impossible, right?

455
00:25:19,440 --> 00:25:23,280
And they were quite you know,
they were happy with the process, but

456
00:25:23,520 --> 00:25:25,000
quite unhappy with their claims.

457
00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:27,720
But then when we showed
but this is what skinceuticals,

458
00:25:28,080 --> 00:25:31,440
you know, the science forward
brand Skinceuticals says.

459
00:25:31,480 --> 00:25:34,800
So then they were like,
Oh yeah, that is actually true.

460
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:38,400
So yeah,
because we conducted a clinical study

461
00:25:38,400 --> 00:25:40,920
and not a perception study
that makes a ton of sense.

462
00:25:41,280 --> 00:25:43,760
So again, you know,
if I see claims that I,

463
00:25:44,160 --> 00:25:47,880
you know, percentage wise too high for me,
that's the super red flag.

464
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:51,720
Oh man, I kind of want to send you
a whole list of things

465
00:25:51,720 --> 00:25:53,200
that I'm like,
What do you think about what?

466
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:55,400
We're not going to get into that now.

467
00:25:55,400 --> 00:25:58,040
You know, I want to think
because I feel like this is something

468
00:25:58,040 --> 00:26:01,480
that, you know, hopefully
I feel like the world is shifting.

469
00:26:01,480 --> 00:26:04,080
Consumers are brands
are certainly getting more transparent.

470
00:26:04,320 --> 00:26:06,240
And a lot of that
has been because of the consumers.

471
00:26:06,240 --> 00:26:07,560
Consumers are more educated.

472
00:26:07,560 --> 00:26:09,400
They know how to look.
They're doing more research.

473
00:26:09,400 --> 00:26:11,760
They talk a lot more.
We all talk a lot more.

474
00:26:11,760 --> 00:26:15,120
Social media has sort of been
the great equalizer in a lot of that.

475
00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:19,200
But then certainly
it helps to have experts like yourself on,

476
00:26:19,480 --> 00:26:22,680
you know, who are really have
that third party view and who also have

477
00:26:22,680 --> 00:26:25,720
the scientific backing to say yes or no.

478
00:26:26,040 --> 00:26:29,640
I feel like I could talk with you
for hours about this, Suzanne.

479
00:26:29,640 --> 00:26:34,320
But, you know, in the interest of time,
if people want to know more about

480
00:26:34,680 --> 00:26:37,040
citrus labs, if they want to know more
about what you do,

481
00:26:37,760 --> 00:26:39,920
if they want to know more about
maybe some of your studies,

482
00:26:39,920 --> 00:26:41,040
is there somewhere they can go?

483
00:26:42,160 --> 00:26:43,600
Yeah, absolutely.

484
00:26:43,600 --> 00:26:48,280
Just check out w w w dot citrus dot com.

485
00:26:48,280 --> 00:26:52,520
And we are always looking for volunteers
for our studies.

486
00:26:52,520 --> 00:26:58,000
There is a prescreening process
and also not everybody gets enrolled.

487
00:26:58,000 --> 00:27:02,240
But yeah, if you're interested
in becoming a product tester,

488
00:27:02,560 --> 00:27:05,040
a subject for a research study,

489
00:27:05,760 --> 00:27:10,440
then you can also send an email
to hello at Citrus Lipscomb.

490
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:13,120
Or find out before you do these.

491
00:27:13,120 --> 00:27:16,840
Like so as a lab,
do they have to have some safety protocols

492
00:27:16,840 --> 00:27:19,840
before your calling people in to try this?

493
00:27:19,840 --> 00:27:21,080
Yeah, absolutely.

494
00:27:21,080 --> 00:27:26,280
So clinical studies are typically approved
by an IAB, an institutional review board

495
00:27:26,640 --> 00:27:30,000
that is reviewing studies based on

496
00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:34,200
if they are ethical, if there are
any risks involved for participants.

497
00:27:34,200 --> 00:27:37,400
And then once they are approved,
the study, then

498
00:27:37,760 --> 00:27:39,760
after that we start recruitment.

499
00:27:39,760 --> 00:27:44,440
And then obviously for each study
there's an exhaustive set of inclusion,

500
00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:47,480
exclusion criteria.

501
00:27:47,480 --> 00:27:52,560
And based on that, we then screen
participants and enroll participants.

502
00:27:52,920 --> 00:27:55,040
Amazing. Now, is this only your base?

503
00:27:55,040 --> 00:27:58,120
I love this to your citrus
Labs is based in Los Angeles.

504
00:27:59,280 --> 00:28:01,080
We are based in Los Angles.

505
00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,320
Most of our studies
conducted nationwide, though.

506
00:28:04,320 --> 00:28:05,400
Oh, okay.

507
00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:07,560
Oh, great, great. Amazing. Hey, listen.

508
00:28:07,800 --> 00:28:10,440
Maybe sign me up. I'm excited.
Maybe sign me up.

509
00:28:10,440 --> 00:28:12,480
If there's something that you think
is really, really promising.

510
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:16,680
I. I want to thank you, Suzanne,
so much for being on here.

511
00:28:16,680 --> 00:28:18,480
I'm going to make sure
to get that list of the brands

512
00:28:18,480 --> 00:28:20,520
that you work with
to put in the show notes.

513
00:28:20,520 --> 00:28:22,560
The people can go
and check those out for themselves

514
00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:25,720
and just thank you so much
for being on today.

515
00:28:25,720 --> 00:28:27,760
I feel like this is so fascinating

516
00:28:27,760 --> 00:28:29,520
and I hope that people just have
a little bit

517
00:28:29,520 --> 00:28:33,240
more information and a little bit
more of that inside information to again,

518
00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:35,800
be able
to make these choices for themselves,

519
00:28:35,800 --> 00:28:38,600
to be able to decipher some of the data
that we're seeing out there.

520
00:28:39,760 --> 00:28:41,160
Yeah, that was a lot of fun.

521
00:28:41,160 --> 00:28:42,240
Thank you so much.

522
00:28:42,240 --> 00:28:42,760
Thank you.

523
00:28:42,760 --> 00:28:43,760
And of course, if you

524
00:28:43,760 --> 00:28:46,960
the question you want me to pass on
to Suzanne or her teammates at your lab,

525
00:28:47,280 --> 00:28:48,360
I'm always happy to do that.

526
00:28:48,360 --> 00:28:51,480
You can email us at hello at art
beauty podcast dot com.

527
00:28:51,520 --> 00:28:56,320
You can find us on Facebook Instagram
and of course YouTube @ArtBeautyPodcast.

528
00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,360
And as always,
we will see you next Tuesday.

529
00:28:59,360 --> 00:29:11,720
Hopefully a little bit smarter. Bye.
